267 Canongate Edinburgh EH8 8BQ

In a city sporting so many haute cuisine restaurants, diners looking for affordable serious dining, where the best of fresh, local produce is prepared by skilful hands, can often be caught in a quandary, having to choose between mediocre midrange places and starry Michelin-starred palaces that charge the earth. The Royal Mile can be thankful, then, for Paul Wedgwood’s eponymous eatery at the heart of tourist Edinburgh. This superb chef and keen forager is passionate about ingredients, cooking and unpretentious service – and serves it all up at very keen prices. Exemplary main courses include the likes of wild Scottish deer laced with pickled squash, creamed leeks, its own haggis, herbed barley and truffle jus or seaweed crusted lamb loin with braised neck, truffled goat’s cheese dauphinoise, black pudding and anchovy cream. For a side? Assorted foraged salad leaves of course. You can even join Chef Wedgwood on one of his regular foraging trips, which are flagged up on the restaurant website.

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