Beyti Ocakbasi

113 Green Lanes, Stoke Newington, London N16 9DA

Wander along Green Lanes and you can take your pick of Turkish restaurants – all of them good, and some of them extremely so. From the outside, Beyti looks much the same as any other kebab joint, with its garish signage, emblazoned with pictures of kebabs and burgers, and an illuminated takeout menu behind the counter at the front. Head inside, however, to the welcoming dining room, where jaunty memorabilia – from Arsenal scarves to kilims, boxing gloves to lanterns – lines the walls, and cheery fake red flowers adorn every table. The food here is very, very good. Start with a few meze, either cold or hot – one mixed plate for two gets you a great selection. Everything is as fresh as can be, and comes with a light, crisp salad. A plate of börek, deep-fried cheese parcels, arrives steaming hot, while the felafel, which come with puréed broad beans, pack a satisfyingly herby crunch. The ispanak tarator – spinach with yoghurt – is deliciously garlicky, and makes a good accompaniment to the grilled meats on offer. For a main course, try one of the daily special stews, the range of kebabs and kofte; or the lip-smacking sac tava, small cubes of lamb cooked in a pan with onions, tomatoes and parsley.

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