UK Travel: A Coronavirus Update

Le Mercury

140A Upper Street, Islington, London N1 1QY

There’s something reassuringly old-fashioned about this corner bistro. It’s been around since the mid 1980s, when French food was the height of chic, and sees no need to change. It’s rather more cosy than chic: a candlelit, artless and largely unpretentious neighbourhood joint, dishing up filling brasserie food at superb prices. All menu items in each section (starters, mains, sides, desserts) cost the same amount, which means you don’t have to give the prices a second thought – oddly liberating in today's penny-pinching climate. The food itself is assured- with solid French staples from grilled goats’ cheese to moules marineres served alongside lots of rich, good meaty mains. The fact the fishcakes are called “gateaux de poisons” might raise a smile, but that’s the only dash of pretension in this utterly likeable place. It’s best to book in the evenings.

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