Rick Stein, Barnes

Tideway Yard, 125 Mortlake High St, London SW14 8SN

Perhaps wisely, Rick Stein has been cautious about extending his culinary empire much beyond his beloved Southwest. But this new venture in Barnes makes you wonder why he waited so long, serving the sort of fresh and simple fish and seafood dishes he made his name with – and which may have you yearning to be in Cornwall or Dorset rather than Southwest London, once you tuck in. You can enjoy crab linguine, wild turbot, halibut and pan-fried skate wing, among many other dishes, while taking in one of the capital's best views over the Thames, and enjoying the relaxed and informal atmosphere of a restaurant that is confident in what it's about. Chains so often donget it wrong when they roll out their brand in the capital, but Rick Stein's restaurant in Barnes has just about nailed it.

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