The Ship at Dunwich

Part of the Chestnut collection of inns, which has taken over and renovated a number of properties across East Anglia, the Ship at Dunwich is a terrific place to come for a lazy weekend by the sea – a cosy boutique pub that serves excellent food and has a set of updated rooms for overnight stays.  By any standards it’s a great location – assuming, that is, you’re after the pristine peace and quiet that Dunwich has to offer. Once medieval England’s largest port but now a tiny village of less than 100 people, gathered around a medieval parish church and monastic ruins, a shingle beach and its legendary fish and chip shop. it's well worth a detour off the nearby A12.  It’s on the Suffolk Coast Path, which you can follow south to Sizewell and Aldeburgh, north to Walberswick and Southwold, or inland to the popular RSPB reserve at Minsmere. It’s also within easy driving distance of any number of pretty villages, country pubs, medieval churches and bustling small towns, both by the sea and inland.

The Ship has 16 rooms, 11 in the main building and 5 in a converted stable block outside. Divided between ‘Good’, ‘Best’ and ‘Marsh View’, they vary quite a lot in size, with the stable block rooms the smallest and those in the pub itself all sorts of shapes and sizes. But all of them have been spruced up with some style, with well-chosen furniture, a bright colour palette and generously-sized beds, good wifi, flatscreen Freeview TVs, tea and coffee-making facilities and complimentary water and biscuits; dogs are also welcome in some rooms. Most of the bathrooms have baths and showers combined and are provided with White Company toiletries.

Downstairs, the main part of the pub consists of several rooms – two at the front furnished with stripped-down floors and tables, and a cosy saloon bar behind. They serve a short, deliberately pubby menu that changes regularly but always features good fish and chips, fish pie, a burger and some sort of homemade pie; the homemade black pudding Scotch eggs are a favourite starter, while other starters and main courses could be anything from Cromer crab to Blythburgh pork.  Sundays see a couple of roast options added.

Like so many places on this stretch of the Suffolk Coast, Dunwich has an end-of-the-road feel that is thoroughly seductive, but the sad fact is that there will never be enough locals here for the pub to keep going. Luckily for us, its peaceful location, good food and comfy rooms keep its many fans coming back again and again.