Just two rooms in this seventeenth-century inn means a fairly personal overnight stay, accompanied by great meals downstairs in the bar. There's one double and one twin, both with country views and a country air, plus antique beds, vintage furniture and neat en-suites. The double is especially lovely, under the old beams of the eaves. The inn is just outside tiny Chapel-le-Dale, a handy stop for either nearby Ingleton or the wilds of upper Ribblesdale, and is in prime walking country. Just down the road, meanwhile, is the evocative old chapel in question, where are buried many of the unfortuante navvies who perished while working on the Settle–Carlisle Railway.

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