Rose & Crown, Romaldkirk

There’s a certain type of proper old bar that puts you right at ease – whether it’s the oak beams and open fire, the cheery welcome or the range of beers. That’s certainly the case of the bar at the heart of the Rose & Crown, a former coaching inn on the route up into Teesdale and the North Pennines. The scenery gets wilder beyond here, which makes the village of Romaldkirk a decent stop in any case, a charming little place set around its handsome village pub and adjacent historic church. The food is always worth pausing for too, though you’ll need to book – it’s a pretty well-known dining destination that regularly features in guides and articles. The menu reflects the surroundings – hearty country food, strong on local produce – and you can stay the night in one of fourteen spacious rooms (the ones in the main building are a bit more in-keeping with the overall tenor, with their old beams and exposed stonework). If all you’re after is a walk and a pint though, the pub is perfect – either for a local riverside stroll or a short drive upstream to rugged waterfalls. And though it might seem as if you’re way off the beaten track here, it’s only six miles from Barnard Castle and the nearby A66.