My Love Affair with Norfolk – and 12 Great Places to Stay

 As a travel writer, and one of the founders of the Rough Guides travel series, I have probably travelled more widely and more frequently than the average person (whoever that is). I have written over 20 guidebooks to destinations, taking in everywhere from New York to Rome, and am never happier than when discovering a new destination, preferably a far-flung foreign city or country.

But one of my happiest places is closer to home – the splendid but admittedly more humdrum county of Norfolk, where I spend as much time as possible, and to which I have authored a Rough Guide. I write about Norfolk for a number of national publications as well as for the Cool Places website, and I have just been commissioned to write a guide to 111 Places You Shouldn’t Miss in Norfolk, following on from my guide to 111 Places You Shouldn't Miss in Norwich.

This will mean travelling the length and breadth of the county, visiting some of my favourite places – here’s a quick taster of just a few of the places I recommend staying…

Albion Nights

One of my favourite Norfolk places to stay is this off-grid cabin in the woods near Bungay, close to the beautiful and relatively unknown Waveney Valley. Its existence is down to owner Helen, who gave up the rat race for a life in the country a decade ago, and relocated here to build this fabulously cosy cabin using only reclaimed and re-purposed materials. It couldn’t be more peaceful, or more charming, and they have just added a second cabin for those in search of a proper rural escape.

The Brisley Bell

Norfolk is a county of brilliant pubs, and there are none better than this village local, which was rescued from dereliction by owners Marcus and Amelia a few years back and now does some of the best food in the county. It’s in a perfect rural location, overlooking the expansive village green, and it just happens to have a set of very chic guest rooms in the pub’s outbuildings – beautifully furnished by ex-antique dealer Amelia – that make the Brisley Bell the ideal place for a short Norfolk break.

Choo Choo Moo

While relaxing in the outdoor bath of one of Choo Choo Moo’s re-purposed railway carriages, you may think you’ve died and gone to glamping heaven. Indeed, these comfy cabins are a perfect off-grid, dog-friendly glamping escape for two, blending rural cosiness with all the comforts of home, and some of the UK’s darkest night skies.

Congham Hall

Just ten minutes from King’s Lynn, Congham Hall is very easy to reach but feels a million miles from anywhere and all the better for it – a handsome, family-owned boutique country house hotel that has everything you need for a truly relaxing stay: spacious and beautifully tended grounds, a tennis court, a spa and good-sized pool, and lovely country walks in all directions. It’s relaxed rather than super-posh with very comfortable rooms that entice you to stay longer, and public spaces and lounges which encourage you to flop before ambling through to the restaurant for a slap-up dinner. My favourite rooms are the hotel’s Orchard Cabins, contemporary spaces which sit apart from the hotel and come with outdoor baths for a wallow while gazing up at the heavens.

The Grove Cromer

One of my favourite North Norfolk hotels, The Grove is a proper family-owned and run hotel tucked away on the edge of the resort town of Cromer. Its gardens feel like a lost and very peaceful domain, yet the hotel offers so much – comfy rooms, an excellent restaurant, self-catering cottages and glamping, plus a very tempting indoor swimming pool. You’re also just a woodland walk away from one of the coast’s best beaches.

Hippersons Boatyard

There’s some special about The Broads, especially if you get to experience them on the water, which you can either do by hiring a cruiser or staying at one of Hippersons’ beautiful floating pods or houseboats – little pockets of waterborne calm that offer a proper back-to-nature holiday experience, with easy access to all sorts of aquatic activities, as well as the nearby delights of the lively Suffolk town of Beccles. They’re all self-sufficient and very comfortable, and there’s no better way to enjoy the delights of the beautiful river Waveney – one of Norfolk’s hidden gems.

The Ironmongers Aylsham

The historic small town of Aylsham makes for a delightful Norfolk short break, and there’s nowhere better to enjoy it than at this refurbished Elizabethan townhouse, whose beamed and stylishly finished rooms provide contemporary boutique accommodation right on the market square. They have all sorts of modern comforts and sustainable, eco-friendly touches; you just let yourself in with a key code and relax. Breakfast could be pastries from the legendary Bread Source café downstairs, or a Full English at the excellent Black Boys pub on the square.  Activities range from country walks to visits to the nearby National Trust pile of Blickling Hall, ancestral home of Anne Boleyn, where there are more walks and the Black Boys’ brilliant sister pub, The Bucks Arms.

The Loddon Swan

Situated in the southern part of the Norfolk Broads, this is more of a village pub than a gastropub, and more of a locals’ pub than an inn. But its rooms are very comfortable and well-priced, and the food they serve is top-notch. Loddon is also a brilliant base for exploring The Broads – on foot, by bike or on the water.

The Maltings

Part of the Chestnut regional pubs group, The Maltings brings a relaxed and contemporary country house feel to this revamped hotel – very dog-friendly, super-chilled, and with a set of very comfortable guest rooms in the main building and dotted around the grounds. There’s also an excellent restaurant in the converted Grain Store outside: a lovely place to eat – and, in line with Chestnut’s other properties, very affordably priced.

Sculthorpe Mill

You couldn’t find a more tranquil location than this converted medieval watermill, which was taken over by foodie sisters Catriona and Siobhan Peyton in 2021. They used to come to the pub with their family when they were small, and it is now not only one of the best places to eat in North Norfolk but one of its most comfortable places to stay, too. Just outside the North Norfolk town of Fakenham, it’s easy to get to but feels very off the beaten track, with delicious food and contemporary yet characterful rooms. At heart, though, it’s a country pub, with lots of atmosphere provided by those who just show up for a drink, especially in its large and sociable garden, which comes into its own in the summer months.

Titchwell Manor

The brainchild of local foodie entrepreneur Eric Snaith, Titchwell Manor is yet another Norfolk property that serves great food while at the same time offering very comfortable boutique rooms to those who want to stay over. Occupying an enviable location close to the coast and the nearby Titchwell RSPB reserve, it’s a brilliant base for exploring the best of the North Norfolk Coast. And in case you want something that’s just a bit closer to nature, they have a couple of really comfy shepherds’ huts in the garden behind the hotel! Just as comfortable as the hotel’s rooms, these are perfect for couples who want a bit more privacy but still want to enjoy all the facilities of the hotel – not least the excellent restaurant.

The White Horse

With an unrivalled location looking out over the creeks and marshes of the North Norfolk Coast, it would be hard to find a better spot to enjoy this part of Norfolk than The White Horse. Not only that, it serves some of the best fish and seafood around and its very comfortable guest rooms make the most of the views. Saunter down to the end of the garden to pick up the Norfolk Coast Path, or just sit awhile in its creekside outdoor bar and enjoy the glorious landscape.

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