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22 Henrietta Street Whitby YO22 4DW

Whitby means kippers and kippers means Fortune's – a traditional smokehouse that has been here since 1872 and still produces England's best oak- and beech-smoked kippers. You'll find the shop (not much more than a stone shed) in the old town, a little way beyond the bottom of the 199 Steps – literally follow your nose.

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