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18 Claypath Durham DH1 1RH

Oldfield's tagline, British food and craft beer, pretty much says it all – it's a modern British brasserie that really walks the talk. We say brasserie, they say 'Noted Eating House', but it all adds up to the same thing, a big, contemporary dining room with massive picture windows and artful nods on all sides to the impeccably sourced British food that anchors the menu. Ingredients are from trusted local suppliers, and dishes are a roll-call of classic Brit tastes, from soused shellfish or venison bangers and mash to roast seabass and curried Teesdale mutton. Lunch and early evening is currently a steal, with two courses for a tenner – for that we had cauliflower fritters with spiced mayo, followed by a slab of corned beef pie, fat chips and a jug of unctuous pour-over gravy. Dessert sir? You must be joking, after all that, but we appreciated the enthusiasm in the waiter's eye.

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