Clachaig Inn

In some countries history is trapped safely behind museum glass. Not in Scotland. Here history is very much of the living variety - take the Clachaig Inn. When they warn above the entrance that Campbells are not welcome they are not kidding. Understandable, when you delve into the story of a spectacular, remote glen haunted by the baleful Massacre of Glencoe in 1692. After the Campbell-led British Government soldiers took advantage of the traditional clan hospitality of the local Macdonalds, the order came to slay them in their beds – men, women and children. Many of the survivors didn’t last long as they staggered partly-clothed into the biting winter’s night.

History in Glencoe is not a distant ghost, but an in-your-face-don’t-ignore-me kilted clansman. The nearby visitor centre adds depth; as does walking the rugged, unforgiving mountains. Glencoe offers some of Scotland’s finest mountaineering and the Clachaig is the ideal base, cowering beneath hulking Highland massifs; a welcome redoubt against hurricane force winds. Like Scotland in the 17th century the inn is largely split into two halves: the Bidean Lounge is relaxed and calm, with windows gazing out at the mountains; an ideal retreat for officers to feast on Macsween of Edinburgh Haggis. The clansmen are in charge at the Boots Bar – it can get riotous with live music and over 400 whiskies (over 130 Scottish gins too). The main building sports 23 modern bedrooms – book a mountain view. There are self-catering options too with a dozen self-catering chalets, cottages and lodges in and around Glencoe.