5 Romily Crescent Cardiff CF11 9NP

Set up in 1996 by Paul Bullimore – hence the name – but now run by his son Russell, Bully’s offers something just a little bit different to most restaurants in Cardiff. Admittedly, the unassuming exterior doesn’t hold too much promise, but the inside looks great, furnished with mix-and-match tables and chairs and walls plastered with all manner of wacky memorabilia garnered from the owner’s travels. The food is classic French, but with a strong local flourish, so expect beautifully crafted dishes like chargrilled Welsh beef with tobacco onions and dauphinoise potatoes, and rump of Welsh lamb with fondant potato. No less important at Bully’s is the wine, which is carefully selected to complement the individual dishes; they’re mostly French, though there are a few other well chosen vintages. The a la carte menu aside, there’s a great-value two-course lunchtime Express menu (£14) on offer, or, conversely, you could really go to town with the gourmet menu, a gut-busting seven-course feast. Reservations are advised.

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