Criterion Place, Off Sovereign Street, Leeds LS1 4AG

The city centre’s best-known Italian restaurant – 40 years old in 2014 – is, well, extremely ‘Italianissimo’ – a huge (seriously, it’s enormous), glitzy, over-the-top dinner-and-show place full of mirrors, glitter, marble and chandeliers. Many love it, some hate it, probably for the same reasons. In other words, if you want tribute acts with your meal and caricature Italian waiters, it’s definitely for you. The pizzas are good, other dishes a bit hit and miss, and you sometimes come out wondering how you spent quite so much money. But it’s undeniably an experience.

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