That this is a delightful hotel, there is no question. It occupies a splendid Georgian building right at the heart of perhaps Suffolk's most genteel and appealing town, and retains its period feel throughout, with nooks and crannies that hold  all manner of Georgian details. It has a tremendous, determinedly traditional restaurant, from which you can look out on the main town square and watch the town grow slowly dark as you feast on classic French-tinged food, and the rooms – though immensely varied – are spacious and comfortable, and wonderfully atmospheric, in the main building at least (others occupy the more modern, blander garden annexe at the back – the "Lighthouse Rooms” – and are a bit cheaper). All in all it's hard to think of a comfier place to stay in Suffolk, yet you can't help but feel the place is beginning to feel its age and could do with a bit of a tarting-up. It would be a sin to do too much of this – The Swan is an institution, after all. But a nod to the twenty-first century wouldn't go amiss.

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