Elterwater’s beautifully sited inn squirrels away nine charming rooms in its ancient nook-and-cranny interior. They have all been refurbished in the last couple of years, so they’re up to scratch, but you need to bear in mind you don’t get much space in an old building like this. What you do get though are lovely views from the front-facing rooms (some have little window seats), and a real sense of peace and quiet this deep into the central fells. Room 3 has a private bathroom, not en-suite, but with the only bath in the building (great for aching hikers), and there’s a connecting door to the adjacent room so it’s a good choice for families.

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