The Golden Lion at Settle

Thwaites have spent a fair amount of money revamping what was Settle's traditional Golden Lion coaching inn, and its latest incarnation is a light and welcoming bar-restaurant in the middle of this handsome market town. They've kept the old panelled bar and big stone fireplace – where you'll still see the original "Golden Lion" fire brasses – but the rest is an opened-out, contemporary eating and drinking joint that's as handy for a cappuccino as it is for a Saturday night out dinner and drink. The locally sourced menu is modern Yorkshire bistro – bangers and mash, chargrilled steaks, deli boards, pasta and salads – with a good range of cask beers on offer. And the Thwaites "barter board" idea is great – the chef writes up what he's looking for, you bring in your surplus homegrown fruit and veg, and you get vouchers to spend in return. You can eat in the snug bar, dining room area or (weather-permitting) courtyard, while upstairs are 14 refurbished rooms offering updated pub B&B. Incidentally, it's worth knowing that the Lion is just a dash from the Settle–Carlisle Railway train station – a handy halt if you're passing through on a day trip.