If you want an espresso and organic flapjack in a cool, classy café, this is not the place for you. A much loved greasy spoon, formerly the station caff and inhabited mostly by bikers and walkers, you can be guaranteed the best hangover cure known to man: the Full English and extra chips. Don't be deterred by the proliferation of hand-scrawled notices (my favourites include 'don't even ask for mushrooms' and 'some days we are nice to customers. Today is not your day'), they just add to the crazy charm of the place. Condensation runs down institutional green walls studded with faded posters of far Himalayan hills, but there are a couple of coal fires and plenty of papers and local info to read whilst you're drinking your pint mug of builder's tea. Truly a national treasure.
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